I’m so excited to share this brand new dress pattern -The Rushcutter
A few months ago I was honored to be selected to test a new sewing pattern for In The Folds, a brand new sewing pattern line by the genius behind Em Makes Patterns. If you don’t use Em Makes Patterns as an amazing sewing, drafting, and pattern making resource then you are missing out on some amazing content. Her blog and the projects on her website are almost as good as studying under Tim Gun himself.
So, when Em announced that she needed testers for her very first PDF pattern I was in like Flynn.
The dress is a trapeze-style or wide A-line dress with a paneled neckline and paneled body. Or as Em puts it in the pattern itself, “The Rushcutter is a knee-length, loose-fitting A-line dress, designed for woven fabrics.” Perhaps this is not the most exciting description, but trust me, this pattern is so great and versatile.
There are two versions of this dress available in the pattern. View A “…has three-quarter length raglan sleeves, large side pockets, an invisible zip, bound neckline and a large hem facing.” and View B “…is a sleeveless dress with back button closure. It has in-seam pockets, and the neckline and armholes are finished with bias binding. Included in the pattern is an optional waist sash.” (the descriptions are from the pattern.) I was asked to make view B for testing purposes.
I chose to make the neckline out of a pretty pink floral fabric and the main body of the dress in a dark navy blue. Both were woven cotton fabrics. The floral, however, was quite thin and I had to flat-line it with some white cotton before starting construction. I also made my own bias tape and covered my own buttons for this dress. I love all the little details like this. I also believe all dresses should have pockets (my wedding dress did!), and The Rushcutter does! Pockets are a must for this mom’s wardrobe.
I was a little concerned while I was making the dress that it would be unflattering because the body is quite full, but once I put the belt on I loved it. I think it fits nicely and I like all the volume. It’s pretty and feminine.
View A is a bit more modern and I am looking forward to making it too. I’m thinking of using a maroon thick knit, if you see some please let me know! I’ve been looking all over.
The Rushcutter is not a beginners pattern. I would suggest having some sewing experience before tackling this dress. All the seams are French seams and since I learned to sew for the theatre I pretty much never use French seams. However, I appreciate how beautiful French seams are and Em’s instructions are written for French seams so it’s not too hard to follow along. I thought the instructions were very clear and they were full of helpful, step-by-step photos to guide you along your merry way. I did end up ripping out a few seams, but that’s pretty normal.
It might seem weird that I’m sharing such a springy dress on the blog in the middle of Autumn. Well it’s because In The Folds is an Australian based company and right now, while USA (at least the Northern East Coast) is heading into sweater weather, Australia is heading into Spring. And because I made this dress in August when it was HOT. And The pattern is releasing today. For all those reasons, I am sharing a sundress in the middle of October.
One of the things that I love so much about the PFD and independent sewing patterns world is that there is such an awesome community. You have the opportunity to meet people virtually and see what they have done with the same pattern you are working on. You can ask for advice, get tips, and tons of inspiration. Sometimes someone will post photos of a pattern I have made in a fabric that I would have never thought of using and it sparks my imagination. That happened recently with The Rushcutter and now I can’t wait to make another version!
The Rushcutter Review
Pattern name: The Rushcutter
Pattern designer: In The Folds
Where to buy: inthefolds.com
Social Media: Instagram:@inthefolds #therushcutter #inthefolds (a pic of my dress has already been shared, go check it out!) Facebook: facebook.com/inthefolds
Size range: A (b- 30″, w- 24″, h-33″) – K (b-51 1/2″, w- 45 1/2″, h-541/2″)
What size did you make? Honestly, I don’t remember. Probably a C or D. The hips are so full that those measurements don’t matter as much, it’s the bust measurement that really matters.
Fabric used: Woven cotton.
What adjustments did you make and how long did they take? Made bias tape, covered buttons, and flat lined the bodice. The covered buttons took the longest because they kept falling apart, but that was because I forgot to use glue. I used this method for continuous bias tape and I have a ton leftover.
What was the construction process like? Did the instructions make sense to you? I am not used to sewing French seams, and I didn’t make a muslin like I should have done. So when I was ripping out seams I ended up having very little seam allowance to work with and fraying edges. Even with having to rip out a few seams, the instructions were really great. There are plenty of helpful photos and tips.
How do you like the pattern’s fit? I think it’s really nice. I like the fullness of the dress and the sash that defines the waist makes a really pretty silhouette.
Will you make the pattern again? Yup, already planning my next one.
The Rushcutter Ratings
1 (worst) through 5 (best)
Instructions (1-5): 5
Construction Process (1-5): 4, but only because I don’t ever use and don’t really like to use French seams, but it was good practice, and it looks really pretty.
Final Fit (1-5): 5
Overall Rating (1-5): 5